Cold Day, Warm Shower

Ok. Day 2! Done! The theme once again… cold, windy, wet weather. Ugh. Where are you, sun???

The forecast called for sun in the morning, so I woke up early with the intention to get on my bike by 6:30. But, by the time I was geared up and ready, it was raining. German weather forecasts kind of suck. It wasn’t a downpour or anything, and there was blue sky in the distance, so I got in the saddle and started riding, leaving my hostel in Krusendorf and aiming for a bakery in nearby Osdorf to load up on baked goods. The line of early rising Germans needing their morning bread was out the door when I arrived. Happy people, greeting one another and chatting. The fellow in front of me gave me a kind smile and a guten morgen.

I had a 90 kilometer ride ahead of me, and knowing I’d be dealing with rain and strong winds throughout the day, I figured I was looking at a long day. I’ve found I average about 20 kilometers per hour when riding, but that doesn’t take into account the multiple stops I’m making along the way. So I knew I had over four hours of riding and probably just as many with stops to warm up, dry off and rest a little.

Around 8:00 there was a break in the rain – the sun actually popping out momentarily – as I rode into a small town. While pulled over to stretch and eat one of my rolls I heard this loud, pumping music coming from nearby. Ever the curious idiot, I had to check it out. So I rolled my bike toward the sound of the beats and eventually saw a small group of guys in the distance, in front of a big barn, standing around a large beverage cart. As I got closer one of them waved me over. I thought, “a party on a Sunday morning?” But, duh, these guys were the last remnants, the last survivors, of a party from the night before. They’d been up all night and were still going. Leonart was the guy who’d waved me over. A big, six foot six inch jolly young guy who, I found out, works on his family’s fish farm. He poured me a beer and filled me in on the fun they’d had the night before. Stop and smell the roses, right? Or, like the message on my water bottle says, “Smiles over miles.” When in Germany, drinking a beer at 8:00 just seems like the right thing to do.

At one point, shortly after this, I took a small ferry across the man-made Kiel Canal that cuts through Germany, connecting the North Sea to the west to the Baltic Sea to the east, allowing ships the forgo sailing all the way up and over Denmark.  I didn’t know this thing existed, but damn it must be a major waterway, because in just the 10 minutes or so I was there, about 10 huge cargo ships passed by. Very cool.

A couple hours later, again wet and again cold, I stopped in the very cute, warm and cozy Café Noosh in Felde for some coffee and cake. Wow. Wonderful. And they had wifi! Yeah! I’ve come to realize that it’s not a given that coffee shops and cafes in Germany have wifi like they tend to back in the States, so when I encounter it, I’m a happy dude. My server asked me about my cycle trip and she told me about hers. She and her husband and young child had recently returned from a 3-month ride across New Zealand. Damn! People are amazing. We had a nice chat, and my hot coffee warmed me up until it was time to leave.

Around mid-day I pedaled into Nortorf, and as good fortune would have it, the town was having some sort of big festival. Damn, luck – other than the fucking cold, wind and rain – seemed to be shining down on me today. I bellied up to one of the outdoor bars and drank up a lovely pilsner while watching the action of happy families, folks dining on sausages, children engaged in carnival games around me. A slice of German culture, not on any tourist maps. Loved it! The beer cart had a large awning, so when the rain came – again! – I was happy under the protective cover and I lingered a bit.

After another warmer-upper break in the town of Bad Bramstedt, this time a huge salad, cheesy bread and beer at Casa Mia Pizzeria, I finally, and happily, arrived at my destination. A home in the village of Hüttblek. I’m trying out this thing on my ride, a website of bike hosts willing to open their doors to passing cyclists called “Warm Showers.” Chad Campbell, an old family friend who’d used it on a long ride in the States a year ago, turned me on to it. Well… if this crazy Warm Showers thing is anything like my first night, sign me up. I’m on board! The young couple that was hosting me, Frauke and Nills,  was away at dinner in the city but had given me instructions on how to get into the house. Man, what a welcome. They had a fruit plate set out for me and the ever important wifi code sitting out. Their house was so cute and bright and warm and inviting. I inhaled the fruit, turned on the TV to the French Open men’s final, unpacked, did some laundry, relaxed, and once again, felt like a lucky man. Frauke and Nills came home around 8:30. We enjoyed some tea and great conversation, them telling me about their recent biking adventure from Alaska to Peru. My god people are insane! I say that in a good way!

Day two was a really good one. Time for Day 3, and riding through Hamburg, the 1st of the 10 Euro 2024 host cities I plan to bike through. Let’s go!