In May 2018, we, Beate and Kerstin, embarked on a special journey: traveling through Israel on our bicycles – a land full of history, culture, and contrasts. What started as an adventure turned into an experience that left a lasting impression on us.
What started as an adventure turned into an experience that left a lasting impression on us.
The heat in May was already oppressive, with temperatures reaching up to 40 degrees Celsius. Along our route, we came across the Arab village of Jisr az-Zarqa, the only purely Arab village on Israel’s Mediterranean coast. We had read about Juha’s Guesthouse on a list of accommodations and planned to stay there. However, when we arrived exhausted and drenched in sweat, the hostel was closed.
Hungry and thirsty, we headed to the nearby beach. There, young men were riding horses along the shore – a fascinating sight. But we felt uneasy: the beach was crowded, exclusively with men, and the atmosphere made us question our plan to camp there. Even in the village itself, we felt out of place and insecure; there were no women on the streets, and the language barrier only heightened our sense of isolation.
When we returned to the village, someone had apparently informed the hostel owner about us. Juha opened the door and offered us a room – the last one available. Yet even this didn’t bring much relief. The hostel seemed empty and deserted, and our skepticism grew. Still, we had no other choice; it was getting dark, and there were no alternatives.
As we settled into our room, we suddenly heard commotion upstairs – a loud “tohuwabohu.” Cautiously, we crept upstairs to see what was going on. To our surprise, we found an international group of travelers: a Brazilian woman with her mother, an American father-son duo, an energetic student from the U.S., and a Japanese student. The group had just checked in and spontaneously invited us to share a cold beer with them. The mood shifted instantly – from unease to relief.
The group asked if we wanted to join them for dinner. We hadn’t even considered that the hostel might offer meals – an obvious option that we had overlooked in our state of tension. What followed turned out to be the most wonderful evening of our entire trip.
What followed turned out to be the most wonderful evening of our entire trip.
Juha invited everyone to his house to celebrate Iftar – the breaking of the fast – with his family on their rooftop terrace. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming: delicious food, deep conversations, and lots of laughter filled the evening. We were especially impressed by Juha’s ten-year-old daughter, who entertained all the guests with her nearly fluent English.
Looking back now, we can hardly understand our initial skepticism. Why were we so afraid of the unfamiliar? Why did the unknown make us so uneasy? This experience taught us something essential: being open to other cultures can open doors – to new friendships, unexpected encounters, and unforgettable moments.
Our journey through Israel became not just a physical adventure but also a lesson in tolerance and curiosity about the diversity of the world.
From Beate and Kerstin: We’re Beate and Kerstin. Beate works in medical technology, and Kerstin is a lawyer at a big company. We’ve been a super happy couple for over 15 years and got married in 2018. Next year, we’re kicking off our open-ended bike trip and honestly, we can’t wait to hit the road!
Chris’ Note: I had the pleasure of meeting Beate and Kerstin during my bike ride across Germany last summer. I had revised my schedule a little and was planning to arrive into Dortmund a day earlier than initially planned. Beate and Kerstin, Warm Showers hosts, stepped up on short notice and gave me a bed for the night. Their home, garden, and generosity were beautiful beyond words. I honestly didn’t want to leave!